China | Plasticware | Glassware | Flatware | Servingware | Pepper Mills | Linen | Candle Lamps
In order to preserve your dinnerware and keep it looking its best, we recommend you review and practice the following guidelines:
Soiled dishes should always be scraped and stacked right away and used dishes should never be left to stand overnight. Remember to separate your china from silverware and glassware as they could easily chip or damage your dinnerware.
It is vital that you wash all soiled dishes within 30 to 45 minutes after use. We also recommend you use solid plastic racks for washing and storing your china, rather than plastic coated metal. Other precautions include making certain you use the proper pre-soak solution. The wrong solution can cause abrasions to the china's glaze and can result in metal markings and food staining on your dinnerware.
When pre-rinsing, make certain your water temperature is between 110 degrees to 120 degrees F. Check your dishwasher, or check with your dishwasher dealer to ensure that your water temperature, rinse cycle and water pressure are adequate to properly clean your dinnerware. Also ask your dealer about handling peak times of operation and make certain your equipment will be able to keep up with the demands. And of course, always keep a lookout for any dishes that are still soiled, even after the final rinse cycle.
Always allow your china to air dry before moving it to the storage area. In order to prevent metal transferring onto your dinnerware, make certain that your countertops and shelving are constructed out of 302 stainless with a number three or four finish. We also recommend that you store clean china far enough away from the food preparation and the soiled dish area. This is especially important during peak periods.
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To prolong the life of your melamine dinnerware, it is recommended that you handle this line just as you would any other dinnerware. While very durable, please note that melamine is not 100% scratch or stain resistant, and if mishandled, it can break. Soiled dishes should always be scraped and stacked right away and used dishes should never be left to stand overnight.
While melamine is perfectly safe when it comes in contact with warm temperatures, melamine is not microwaveable. In general, melamine products are not designed to withstand temperatures that exceed 212 degrees Fahrenheit and should not be submerged in boiling water or placed in the oven. Yet they are dishwasher safe (as long as the water temperature does not exceed the 212 degrees Fahrenheit guideline). When in doubt, we recommend you hand wash your melamine, always using commercial cleansers made specifically for Melamine products. Do not use scouring powder or other abrasives detergents on melamine products. To remove dried on foods, always use either a soft pad or brush to avoid scratching and if needed, pre-soak stubborn stains in a solution recommended for melamine by your chemical supplier. Never use chlorine bleach on melamine dinnerware.
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Always remember that glassware is extremely sensitive to temperature changes, therefore, always allow your glassware to reach room temperature before using. Also avoid glass to glass contact, which includes the following:
Whether it be a beer tap, silverware, or another glass, constant contact will cause invisible abrasions to occur, which will weaken the glass and increase the chance of breakage.
Sudden temperature changes produce stress in glass and can cause breakage. Therefore, glassware must be allowed to reach room temperature before placement in service.
- Avoid picking up a 'cluster' of glassware
- Do not stack glassware
- Never overload the bus tray with glassware inside
- Never insert silverware into glassware.
- Never scoop ice from the machine or bucket using the glassware
- Do not let beer tap come in contact with the glassware
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Caring For Your Flatware
In order to preserve the life of your stainless steel flatware and keep it looking its best, we recommend the following simple guidelines when caring for your investment:
Always presoak your flatware as soon as possible after use, and do not allow stainless steel to soak longer than 15 minutes. Make sure your presoak solution is made from a non-abrasive compound.
Washing By Hand
Whenever possible, we recommend washing your flatware by hand with hot water and a cleaning solution free from abrasive and corrosive ingredients. Rinse flatware in hot water (180 degrees F) and dry your flatware immediately with a soft cloth to prevent rusting and or pitting.
When loading the flatware into the dishwasher, make sure the spoon and fork handles are facing down and the knife handles are facing up. We recommend using powder detergents, rather than liquid detergents. We do not recommend you use detergents that have been enhanced with citrus scents such as lemon or orange. From time to time, it is a good idea to use a stainless steel metal cleaner as well. And lastly, always remember to separate different metals and wash them in separate cycles.
De-tarnishing & Burnishing
If you notice tarnish built up on your flatware, you can either scrub it clean with a mild soapy solution or use a solution comprised of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water. Never use popular 'dip-type' detarnishing products as they contain harmful agents and acids that could damage your flatware over time. When burnishing your flatware, remember to only use a stainless steel burnishing ball in conjunction with an oxidizing solution.
When not in use, store your stainless steel flatware in a cool, dry area and never store stainless steel with other metal items.
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As the majority of items in our products of servingware is Stainless Steel we are providing information on the care and handling of those products
Corrosion on metals is everywhere. It is recognized quickly on iron and steel as unsightly yellow/orange rust. Such metals are called "active" because they actively corrode in a natural environment when their atoms combine with oxygen to form rust.
Stainless steels are passive metals because they contain other metals, like chromium, nickel and manganese that stabilize the atoms. 400 series stainless steels are called ferritic, contain chromium, and are magnetic; 300 series stainless steels are called austenitic contain chromium and nickel; and 200 series stainless, also austenitic, contains manganese, nitrogen and carbon. Austenitic types of stainless are not magnetic, and generally provide greater resistance to corrosion than ferritic types.
With 12-30 percent chromium, an invisible passive film covers the steel's surface acting as a shield against corrosion. As long as the film is intact and not broken or contaminated, the metal is passive and stainless. If the passive film of stainless steel has been broken, equipment starts to corrode. At its end, it rusts.
Enemies of Stainless Steel
There are three basic things which can break down stainless steel's passivity layer and allow corrosion to occur.
- Mechanical abrasion
- Deposits and water
Mechanical abrasion means those things that will scratch a steel surface. Steel pads, wire brushes and scrapers are prime examples.
Water comes out of the faucet in varying degrees of hardness. Depending on what part of the country you live in, you may have hard or soft water. Hard water may leave spots, and when heated leave deposits behind that if left to sit, will break down the passive layer and rust stainless steel. Other deposits from food preparation and service must be properly removed.
Chlorides are found nearly everywhere. They are in water, food and table salt. One of the worst chloride perpetrators can come from household and industrial cleaners.
So what does all this mean?
Here are a few steps that can help prevent stainless steel rust.
- Use the proper tools.When cleaning stainless steel products, use non-abrasive tools. Soft cloths and plastic scouring pads will not harm steel's passive layer. Stainless steel pads also can be used but the scrubbing motion must be in the direction of the manufacturers' polishing marks.
- Clean with the polish lines. Some stainless steel comes with visible polishing lines or "grain." When visible lines are present, always scrub in a motion parallel to the lines. When the grain cannot be seen, play it safe and use a soft cloth or plastic scouring pad.
- Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride containing cleaners. While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the industry is providing an ever-increasing choice of non-chloride cleaners. If you are not sure of chloride content in the cleaner used, contact your cleaner supplier. If your present cleaner contains chlorides, ask your supplier if they have an alternative. We recommend a commercially available cleaner, Steel Shine. Avoid cleaners containing quaternary salts; it also can attack stainless steel and cause pitting and rusting.
- Treat your water. Though this is not always practical, softening hard water can do much to reduce deposits. There are certain filters that can be installed to remove distasteful and corrosive elements. To insure proper water treatment, call a treatment specialist.
- Keep your food equipment clean. Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners at recommended strength. Clean frequently to avoid build-up of hard, stubborn stains If you boil water in stainless steel equipment, remember the single most likely cause of damage is chlorides in the water. Heating cleaners that contain chlorides have a similar effect.
- Rinse, rinse, rinse. If chlorinated cleaners are used, rinse and wipe equipment and supplies dry immediately. The sooner you wipe off standing water, especially when it contains cleaning agents, the better. After wiping equipment down, allow it to air dry; oxygen helps maintain the stainless steel's passivity film.
- Never use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) on stainless steel.
- Regularly restore/passivate stainless steel.
- Recommended cleaners for specific situations
Apply with cloth or sponge
Fingerprints & smears
Provides barrier film
Stubborn stains &
Steel Shine, Cameo, Talc, Zud, First Impression
Rub in direction of
Grease & fatty acids, blood,
Easy-off, De-Grease It
Excellent removal on
Grease & oil
Apply with sponge or cloth
Benefit, Super Sheen
- Stainless steels rust when passivity (film-shield) breaks down as a result of scrapes, scratches, deposits and chlorides.
- Stainless steel rust starts with pits and cracks.
- Use the proper tools. Do not use steel pads, wire brushes or scrapers to clean stainless steel.
- Use non-chlorinated cleaners at recommended concentrations. Use only chloride- free cleaners.
- Soften your water. Use filters and softeners whenever possible.
- Wipe off cleaning agent(s) and standing water as soon as possible. Prolonged contact causes eventual problems.
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Mill Filling Instructions
Fill & Use Pepper Mill: Remove top knob. Lift off the mill top. Fill pepper chamber 3/4 full of peppercorns and then reassemble. When dispensing pepper always turn top to the right (clockwise).
Fill & Use Shaker: Unscrew or pull out plug at bottom. Hold hand over salt top, so salt does not leak as you are filling shaker. Fill with salt & then reassemble. Tilt and shake.
Fill & Use Combo: Remove top knob. Lift off the top section of the mill. Fill the top section with table salt. Fill the pepper chamber 3/4 full of peppercorns and then reassemble. When dispensing pepper, turn top to the right (clockwise).
For salt, tilt and shake.
Mill Adjustment Instructions
To Fill & Use Mill: Remove top knob. Lift off the mill top. Fill salt chamber 3/4 full of
Top Grind Adjustment: Grind Adjustment: Turn top knob to the right for finer grind, or to the left for more coarse grind. Some top knobs may look different.
Bottom Grind Adjustment: Move indicator arrow from •(fine) to •••• (coarse). DO
NOT FORCE INDICATOR ARROW INTO THE AREA BETWEEN •••• AND •, or damage
to the grinding mechanism may occur.
Spices: Always use the highest quality peppercorns, table salt, and salt crystals. Inferior spice may contain impurities that will clog the grinding mechanisms. Store these spices in airtight containers away from direct sunlight or heat.
Filling: Fill salt or pepper mills three-quarters full. Filling to this level will decrease the amount of torque on the turnplate at the top of the mill, and make spice grinding easier. Having some space in the spice chamber will allow for swelling of peppercorns, if they are not stored properly in humid climates.
Temperature Extremes and Moisture: Do not expose your mill to heat or cold. These temperature extremes may damage the finish of the mills and ruin the flavors of the spices. Heat may melt acrylic or peel wood finishes. Cold may make synthetic components of mills brittle. Peppercorns, pepper blends, and salt crystals are condiments that do not require refrigeration. As such, we recommend that mills NEVER be store in refrigeration units.
Never immerse your mill or shakers in water. Mills are NOT dishwasher safe. Water may damage the wood finishes and clog grinding mechanisms by affecting the spice in the grinding chamber.
If Your Mill Becomes Jammed: Occasionally a peppercorn or salt crystal may become jammed in the grinder. Turn the spice mill upside down occasionally and shake the spice down to the top. Give the bottom of the mill several light taps. If the spice does not rattle loosely, then it may be packed too tightly or have become moist.
Tip for Changing the Adjustment of Your Mill: Adjust your mill more easily by turning the unit upside down before changing your setting to fine making sure peppercorns are not going to be caught in the mechanism when you tighten it down to a finer grind.
Care for your wooden body pepper mill: Polish with a soft cloth. Dry thoroughly. Do not use alcohol, strong detergents, abrasives or any kind of solvents to clean the mill. Avoid antioxidant cloths for cleaning the metal parts. Wood is a natural, warm material that acquires a beautiful patina with repeated use.
Care for your acrylic body pepper mill: Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Do not use alcohol, strong detergents, abrasives or any kind of solvents to clean the mill. Avoid antioxidant cloths for cleaning the metal parts.
Care for your stainless-steel, or metal finish pepper mill: Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Do not use alcohol, strong detergents, abrasives or metal polishes to clean the mill. Avoid antioxidant cloths for cleaning the metal parts.
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Washing Instructions For Polyester
Polyester may be washed at temperatures up to 120 degrees Fahrenheit-(synthetic) at permanent press cycle. No fabric softeners.
No harsh detergents-NO BLEACH, rinse thoroughly-remove immediately. Check with your detergent supplier for the correct formulation to use.
Tumble dry on low heat (140 degrees Fahrenheit). Dry cool cycle
Remove immediately-Touch up ironing at polyester setting
Chemicals and equipment vary. It is recommended that you contact your chemical supplier for the formula best suited for your operation.
For best results, do not overload 60% capacity for washers, 50% capacity for dryers. It is very important to have adequate cool down in both washing and drying cycles.
To minimize wrinkling, immediately remove upon completion of both the wash and dry cycles. Prompt folding is recommended.
Wash before use. Wash colors separately.
Do not use fabric softener.
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Lamp bases, globes and shades ARE NOT dishwasher safe. When cleaning lamp bases, globes or accessories, wipe with a clean damp cloth. If necessary wash only with mild soap and water. Dry immediately with a clean, soft cloth to prevent water spotting. DO NOT use harsh chemicals, abrasive cleansers or metal polishing agents when cleaning.
Fabric shades have been treated with a flame retardant for your safety. Additionally, each shade has been treated with a stain-repelling agent. When cleaning, wipe with a clean, damp cloth ONLY. Although shades have been treated with a stain-repelling agent, they are not "stain proof". When attempting to remove sills, blot the area with a clean, damp cloth until spill is removed.
Unless otherwise noted, Soft Light® is the recommended liquid wax candle for all lamps distributed by American Discount Tableware. Breakage or cracking may be experienced when traditional wax tea lights and votives are used in glass lamps. Use of other manufacturer's products will void all warranties.
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